Tuscan Blends $100
Montepeloso, Costa Toscana ‘Eneo’ 2018
La Massa, Toscana 2017
Podere Sapaio, Bolgheri Superiore ‘Volpolo’ 2018
Blending has always been an integral aspect of winemaking in Tuscany but a lack of clearly defined regulations means this category is essentially the Wild West of Italian wine. A lack of tradition and the ability to experiment freely means the market is filled with delicious, interesting blends. This Trio highlights indigenous varietals in their native land, international varietals that are flourishing in a new home, and how the two can be combined to create a wine that expresses terroir in a new and exciting way. All three are perfect examples of how the whole can be greater than the sum of its parts in these benchmark Tuscan blends.
Located in Suvereto, Montepeloso is a 6-hectare estate run by Fabio Chiarelotto. He has always striven to craft wines of elegance and finesse, which is a lofty goal given the abundant warmth and sun this part of Tuscany enjoys. While most of his neighbors focus on Bordeaux varietals, Chiarelotto highlights indigenous varietals in his most original wine, Eneo, which is mostly Sangiovese with a large percentage of Montepulciano and a smaller proportion of Alicante (Grenache) rounding out the blend. Eneo combines Sangiovese’s brightness and acidity with Montepulciano’s dark and powerful structure, while Alicante provides generous juicy red fruit.
La Massa’s Giampaolo Motta farms 27 hectares in Panzano’s Conca d’Oro, which is the hottest subzone of Chianti Classico. This warmth allows Bordeaux varietals to thrive, and the namesake wine deftly blends Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon into a core of Sangiovese. Vinification that includes short fermentations and primarily old oak barrels allows the each grape’s purity to shine. Sangiovese’s acidity and bright aromatics are balanced by the Bordeaux varietals, which add complexity through subtle notes like leather, cedar, tobacco, and more obvious dark fruit in this luscious and seamless blend.
Bolgheri is literally a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean Sea and this proximity creates an ideal terroir for Bordeaux varietals. Warmer than Bordeaux but not as hot as Napa Valley, Bolgheri offers the perfect middle ground for grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. Volpolo comes from Podere Sapaio’s 25 hectares of vines in the heart of the appellation and the wine clearly demonstrates the balance between powerful dark fruit, subtle savory notes, and velvety tannins.