Producer Profile – Gulfi $75
Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2019
Terre Siciliane Rosso ‘Nerojbleo’ 2018
Terre Siciliane Rosso ‘NeroBaronj’ 2017
Although Etna’s recent rise to fame has captured much of the public’s attention, Nero d’Avola has long been Sicily’s most important red grape and no winery has done more to promote the varietal than Gulfi. Also known as Calabrese, Nero d’Avola is known for generous dark red fruit that is commonly framed by soft tannins and accented by spicy notes and aromas of wild aromatic herbs. One of the varietal’s best attributes is its ability to withstand hot and dry weather while maintaining its acidity, so Nero d’Avola thrives in the arid climate of southeastern Sicily. With vineyards all over this part of the island, Gulfi captures the varietal’s potential from multiple points of view, and this Trio highlights three distinct terroirs that demonstrate Nero d’Avola’s enduring greatness.
Just west of Ragusa, Vittoria’s gentle rolling hills are home to Frappato, a varietal that offers floral aromatics with bright red fruit and fresh acidity. It is commonly blended with Nero d’Avola in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation, and Gulfi’s rendition includes 30% Frappato and 70% Nero d’Avola in a wine that clearly displays the latter’s more elegant side. Vinification in stainless steel yields a vibrant red wine that is immensely enjoyable when served with a slight chill on a balmy summer evening.
To the northeast is Chiaramonte Gulfi, the winery’s namesake town. This terroir could be considered a Premier Cru for Nero d’Avola, as the wines are more powerful than those made in Vittoria but still offer generous fruit and soft tannins in a relatively hedonistic style. Vinification in used French oak barriques and tonneaux contributes structure and accentuates Nero d’Avola’s subtle spiciness.
The undisputed Grand Cru area for Nero d’Avola is located near Pachino in the extreme southeast of Sicily. Gulfi expresses this terroir through four single-vineyard Nero d’Avolas, each revealing characteristics that make them distinctive. Although it is the farthest from the coast, NeroBaronj is planted on limestone soils only 30 meters above sea level, so the influence of the sea is undeniable. Sweet spices and dried flowers emerge on the nose, while in the mouth, juicy red fruit is balanced by fresh salinity, a vein of chalky minerality, and fine-grained tannins.