Historically, Barolo was always blended from multiple vineyards, both to mitigate risk and to create more balanced wines. But in the 1960s, some astute winemakers realized certain vineyards were consistently able to create complex wines that could easily stand alone, and so the single-vineyard revolution in Barolo was born. This Trio highlights three growers who own parcels in some of Barolo’s greatest vineyards and age their wines in large old casks, a practice that truly allows the pedigree and terroir of these magnificent crus to shine through.

A long southeast-facing hillside in the village of Barolo itself, Cannubi has been one of the most storied vineyards in the region since 1752. A high percentage of sand in the soil makes Cannubi unique, and great Barolo from this site combines an intoxicating perfume with ripe fruit and supple tannins. While the original Cannubi vineyard is in the middle of the hill, there are now five vineyards that utilize the Cannubi name. Not all Cannubi is created equal, and the best parts are unquestionably the original Cannubi and Cannubi Boschis, two contiguous vineyards that share virtually the same exposition and soil. Francesco Rinaldi’s holdings overlap these two crus and because regulations prohibit labels from naming multiple crus, they name their Barolo Cannubbio. It captures the essence of Cannubi, marrying lifted aromatics and a silky texture to create a supremely elegant Barolo.

While La Morra can boast many remarkable vineyards, Brunate is certainly the village’s crowning jewel. Although Brunate is located just one ridge north of Cannubi and shares a similar southeastern exposition, the soil is mostly clay and the microclimate is significantly warmer. This leads to Barolos of depth and power that are commonly marked by a distinctive balsamic note even in their youth. Marcarini’s prime plot is in the middle of the hill and faces due south. This combination perfectly demonstrates Brunate’s terroir, displaying dark fruit, balsamic flavors, and a deep, powerful finish.

Barolo aficionados know that Cerretta has long been one of Barolo’s notable crus, but it is only in the last ten years that its greatness has been widely recognized. Recent acquisitions by high-profile producers like Altare and Giacomo Conterno have certainly put Cerretta on the map, but Schiavenza has been working with the vineyard since the 1950s. Located in the northern sector of Serralunga d’Alba, Cerretta contributes to the village’s reputation for making wines of structure and power. Schiavenza’s parcel is located in the best part of this large cru, an area known as Bricco, which is the top of the hill and enjoys a southwestern exposure. While its power can be compared to Brunate, a high percentage of limestone in Cerretta’s soil yields wines with bright red fruit that is a complex contrast to the wine’s deep savory notes of tar and leather.